If the so-called luck of the Irish does exist, and I
believe it does, it is because of Irish generosity. For a long time, I had
wanted to visit Kane graveyard, but I was only able to finally visit it because
Eugene Lynch had offered to drive me there – after his wife had fed us both a
substantial and excellent lunch. His offer of a ride was essential, because I
could never have found this ancient burying place on my own. Even Eugene, who
knows the area like the back of his own hand, had to stop, as we neared it, to
ask if we were on the right track. We were. When we arrived, the sun broke
through and the drizzle ceased. When it comes to luck, that was like the icing
on the top of the cake.
Some
of the information that has been handed down about this graveyard is based on
folk tales, and some is from written records. I always enjoy the seasoning that
the local stories add to the dustier versions found in history texts. A good
starting place is the tale of the fairies at Kane. Jem Murphy’s version was
first published in the Journal of The Creggan Local History Society in 1992. It
was a retelling of an older tale, told about a hundred years earlier by Jem
Callaghan. He had been working until after midnight at the kiln in Johnston's
corn-mill in Ballsmill. John Johnston’s mill would have been about three
kilometers north of Kane. The tale opens with the totally believable fact that Callaghan
had been drying oats for the next day’s milling, and with his work done, he was
simply walking home, as he usually would.
He was travelling north on the "Boher Mor" [aka
the Big Road leading southeast to
Dundalk] and coming near home when he met
with a troop of fairies carrying a small coffin. When he met them, they left
the coffin down by the roadside and told him they were going to Kane graveyard
to bury one of their clan. They begged him to come with them and assist at the
burial and he agreed.
When they restarted the journey the leader asked "Who'll carry the
coffin?", the rest answered, "Who but Callaghan!", so Jem took
the coffin on his shoulders and marched at the front of the cortege. When they
arrived at Kane the leader directed them into the ruined church and pointed to
the spot for Jem to leave down the coffin. He then inquired "Who'll say
the Mass?", to which the rest replied "Who but Callaghan"! The
Mass said; the leader asked, "Who'll dig the grave?". "Who but
Callaghan" came the answer.
Note the call and refrain element of this story. It made such
tales more likely to stick in people’s memories, and therefore more likely to be
handed down from one generation to another.
When the burial was over the leader went behind the hedge and returned
with white mare, he told Jem to mount and make for home, he would get "coin and livery" at the "Stump"
the fairy told him.
He came home, tied the mare to the door porch went in, and went to bed.
He got up in the morning and went out to see the mare. - - - "And what had
I?" Jem would ask his listeners, "a broomstick with a bunch of
feathers at one end of it! ". Some of his listeners. would ask Jem how he
said the Mass. "How did I say it", he would answer "only the
best way I knew how".
The Stump, where Callaghan was supposed to go to get his coin and livery, was an oval building about
a kilometer southeast of the graveyard. The Irish name for Stump is Fas Na Haon Oidce. Its meaning, the work of one night, was also used in
describing mushrooms, and perhaps there is a connection between the fairies and
Stump. After all, a circle of mushrooms is often referred to as a fairy ring.
Stump photo from the collection of C.T. McCrea, and published in A Man Who Can Speak of Plants. E. Charles Nelson and Alan Probert. |
In 1915, it took more than the work of one night to cart away the last of the remaining stones
of Stump. It is likely that they ended up in several of the farm walls and
buildings nearby. The thieving of stones had long been a losing battle. In
the mid-1800s, Dr. Thomas Coulter (1793-1843), the famed naturalist and son of
Samuel Coulter, had tried to stop people taking those stones. They were on his
leased land, and he valued the Stump for its mysterious history. Even though he
prosecuted some of the culprits – successfully - the practice of thieving the
stones continued unabated.
The Coulters were not only successful farmers, but were also
more educated than one might expect. Samuel Coulter owned an impressive
personal library reflecting his eclectic interests in science, agriculture and
literature. He also had an abiding interest in Irish culture, and had
commissioned and published translations of old Irish tales. He wasn’t alone in
this. There were several Presbyterians in the region in the late 1700s and
early 1800s who were also passionate about saving Irish heritage. It is
probable that some of Callaghan’s listeners would have known of the Coulters,
their connection to the Stump, and also that many of their relations had been
buried at Kane. After all, the memories of people in that time and place were both
long and deep.
Those listening to Callaghan’s tale would also
have known about the souterrain or underground cave at Kane that dated back to about
1,200 BC. The wall that surrounds the graveyard was built over the opening to
it. Its entry was on the right hand side of the current entrance gate.
According to Harry Tempest of Dundalk, writing in the 1920's, it ran deep
into and beneath the graveyard. A couple of decades earlier (1900), Fr. Larry
Murray had also described this cave: in
the east side of the churchyard, in the middle of which was a beautiful spring
well; it is now closed.
The
parish of Kane was named for the legendary Cian Mac Cáint, who lived nearby at Killen Hill, another of the
townlands leased by the Coulters in the 1700s. His story had been passed down long
before the post-Cromwellian influx of farmers, such as the Coulters, had arrived
from Scotland. As fate would have it, the story of Cian was one of the kinds of
tales that Samuel Coulter, and men like him, would help to preserve both as the
legend of The Death of the Sons of Tuireann,
and in the poem written and sung by Peadar O Doirnin (1700-1769), a hedge
school teacher from south Armagh:
You'll have harp-music
played with swift fingers
to wake you and love songs —
there is no fort as happy and full of fun
as the fair hill of Cian Mac Cáinte.
to wake you and love songs —
there is no fort as happy and full of fun
as the fair hill of Cian Mac Cáinte.
The
earliest known record of some kind of Christian church at Kane was its mention in
an ecclesiastical dispute in 1297. Typically, the fight was over the allocation
of tithes. In Anglo-Norman records, the church was funded by what was
called a prebend, meaning that the
cathedral granted revenue to the minister as salary. That privilege seems to
have lapsed in the 1500s, after the Reformation, and during the shift from
Catholic to Protestant. A lot of the old churches went dark in this era.
Parts of these walls, surrounding both the church and the grave site, date back to the early 1700s. |
When Rev. James Cubett arrived in 1692 as the Protestant curate
of Kane, the church was in rough shape. Even though no clergyman had lived
there since the Reformation, Cubett was expected to reside there. During his
brief tenure, the church, dedicated to St. John, was totally rebuilt, and this
time the reconstructed church lasted long enough for a successor to take over. A
few remaining fragments, of what would have been an interior skim coat of
plaster, indicate that the builders did their best to make it cozy, and to keep
out the draft.
In 1699, Rev. Wm. Smith, who served the parishioners in
Barronstown and Faughart, as well as Dunbin, was additionally given the
responsibility for the Parish of Kane after Cubett had left. He preached and
celebrated Divine Services there every Sunday. Not that his congregation would
have been large. Even by 1766, there were still only 2 Protestant and 22 R.C.
families living within the parish. It seems likely that some of the Protestants
who lived nearby in the parishes of Barronstown, Castletown, Phillipstown,
Roche, and the eastern part of Creggan also attended services at Kane. Their family
residences are noted on many of the gravestones that remain.
It is hard to say how many years it took for that version
of the rebuilt church to disappear. Not that there was much to cart away. Even
in its heyday, the building was no larger than a typical thatched bungalow – about
50’ by 26’. When it comes to local archaeological pillaging, this would have
been small potatoes. It was nowhere near as challenging as it had been for
stone-stealers to remove the stones of Ireland's Stonehenge at nearby Carnbeg. Those stones, many
of which were massive, had been carted away, in spite of the opposition of the Coulters.
The local farmers who took such stones – and the ones from Carnbeg were as
large as the ones at Stonehenge - probably prided themselves on being practical.
As for the church at Kane, by the 1900s, only the bottom few feet of the walls were
left.
I do not know at what point the graveyard became
predominately (if not totally) a Presbyterian burial ground. It would have been
after the influx of Scots Dissenters in the post-Cromwellian era. I also do not
know when the Church of Ireland finally ceased to hold services there, but in
1786, the parish was permanently united with Barronstown. According to Noel
Ross, who knows much more about the local history than I ever will, there is no
subsequent record of the church at Kane ever being used as a place of worship
for Presbyterians. By the 1800s, it was only being used for burials. Many of
the dead came from townlands near the long-gone Presbyterian meeting house at
Annaghvacky. Their families farmed there and at Carracloghan, Shortstone West,
Cavananore, and Roche. Over time, they had prospered, and some of their sons had
become merchants, lawyers, and doctors. Their occupations are noted on their
gravestone inscriptions.
By the early 1970s, the graveyard became - once again -
over-run with weeds, and saplings. The bushes got so tall that only the tips of
the tallest of the markers could be seen in the sea of green. In 1974, the Faughart
Historical Properties Preservation Society restored it, and ecumenical services
were held intermittently during the following decades. Jane Bailie of
Carraghcloghan (1903-1977) was the last to be buried, with her ancestral
families, in the graveyard at Kane. Sometime after her burial, the weeds again
took over, and in 2005, the site had to be reclaimed one more time. This last
effort, at least, seems to have taken hold.
I am grateful for all those who have struggled over the
years to protect this site, whether they were doing this work as government
staff or as volunteers. Thanks also to Eugene Lynch for that magical afternoon
visit in the spring of 2015. As a bonus, the two of us were joined by a very biblical
kind of flock, one that I suspect is best suited to keeping the ever-lasting weeds
at bay.
Sheep grazing around graves. |
NOTE: This page was inadvertently erased – by me. This is my attempt to
reconstruct what I had. March 1, 2016. It isn't quite the same.
Update (thanks to Noel Ross):
There is a detailed description of the souterrain at Kane in 'Five Louth Souterrains', CLAHJ, xix, 3,
(1979), pp 206 - 217. Noel Ross was in the souterrain at the time it was
surveyed. The dating of 1.200 B.C. is rather early, the generally accepted date
range for souterrains is between 600 and 1,200 A.D.There is a short piece in Leslie’s Armagh Clergy
and Parishes. It was never a Presbyterian place of worship. A meeting house at
Annaghvacky for the Presbyterian congregation was opened in 1773. For details
see Don Johnston’s article in the 2013 Journal of Co. Louth Archaelogical and
Historical Journal, ‘Gaelic-Speaking
Presbyterian Ministers of Dundalk/Ballymascanlan’. The map on p. 62 shows
the location. Since there is no other graveyard in the area Kane was the
obvious burial place.
On my web site: Transcriptions
and photos of grave markers at Kane.
PS A haunting guitar version of Peadar O Doirnin’s song can
be heard at: Úrchnoc or The Fair Hill of Killen. It makes for a beautiful accompaniment
to the photos of the grave markers.